Imagine a place where the spirit of mariachi music thrives, a true emblem of Mexican culture. Salón Tenampa, nestled in the heart of Mexico City, is celebrating a remarkable milestone - its 100th anniversary! But this isn't just any old cantina; it's a legendary spot with a rich history and a unique atmosphere that has captivated generations.
The story goes that two iconic figures, singer Chavela Vargas and actor José Alfredo Jiménez, once spent three nights locked away in Salón Tenampa, indulging in tequila and belting out tunes with the talented musicians. Fast forward to a Wednesday night in November, and the magic continues. A mariachi band strikes up a classic by Paquita la del Barrio, and the room comes alive.
"You, who left me. I, who waited for you..." Daniel Gómez, seated at a table, closes his eyes and sways, his fist clenched in time with the music. He sings with passion, "I, foolishly, was always faithful to you." The tables are filled, and the mariachis move among the patrons, offering their musical talents. Salón Tenampa, the grand master of mariachi in the capital, is in full swing.
The mariachi band circles Daniel's table, and he sways to the sound of the violins. He's here with friends from Los Angeles, and it's his first visit. "The place is super chill. Coming from the other side and experiencing this..." he trails off, clearly moved. The walls of Salón Tenampa are adorned with portraits of musical legends like Pedro Infante, Jorge Negrete, and Juan Gabriel, creating a gallery of Mexican music royalty.
Marcos Montes, a 57-year-old gentleman born in Mexico City, dons a light beige charro suit with gold details. He's a member of Mariachi Guadalajara, and his father performed at the cantina for 50 years. Montes emphasizes the continuous music, stating, "Garibaldi, the plaza surrounding Tenampa, is full of mariachis, but Tenampa is an iconic spot." He joins his bandmates, singing "Estos Celos" by Vicente Fernández.
Mariachi Guadalajara is one of the bands chosen to perform at Tenampa by the World Mariachi Congress agreement. Montes explains that Garibaldi can accommodate around 2,000 mariachi musicians on weekends, with about seven bands performing at Salón Tenampa. The most requested songs include "Mujeres Divinas," "Serenata Huasteca," and "De Qué Manera Te Olvido." But here's where it gets controversial... some songs, like "Mátalas" by Alejandro Fernández, are considered controversial, yet they still find their place in the mariachi repertoire.
Early risers and a plate of birria (meat stew) play a part in this story too. Manuel Eduardo Toscano, a 73-year-old composer, shares a mischievous anecdote from his early days as a songwriter. He and the artistic director Jorge Nájera (now deceased) ordered birria, but it was served with too much water, and they didn't like it. Nájera, in a clever move, pulled out a hair from his head, threw it into the birria, and refused to pay. Toscano, born near the Gulf of Mexico, believes Salón Tenampa holds "real" value, as composers like Don Pepe Guízar have written songs about it, making it famous worldwide.
The colorful papel picado, Mexican decorative craft paper, hangs from the ceiling, announcing the centennial. Fernanda Aguilera, the great-great-granddaughter of the first owner, Juan I. Hernández, shares her family's legacy. She emphasizes the importance of preserving Mexican traditions and the unique identity of Tenampa, where "flavors, colors, smells, and sounds of a Mexico that seems old but still exists today" come together.
Saúl Palacios, a 23-year-old employee, believes Salón Tenampa's success lies in its preservation of Mexican traditions and the renowned visitors it has attracted. He highlights the promotion of mezcal and tequila, the two most popular drinks, with cocktails like mezcalitas and margaritas. But it's the pomegranate punch, a secret recipe known only to a bartender named Jerry from Guadalajara, that truly stands out.
When it comes to food, Palacios emphasizes the Jalisco essence, with dishes like quesabirrias, birria, pozole, and torta ahogada. The Tenampa platter, a street food extravaganza, showcases the diversity of Mexican cuisine. Thirty years ago, the plaza surrounding Tenampa was a lively party spot, the only place where drinking in the street was allowed. But as the city evolved, it transformed to accommodate more visitors.
José Luis Hernández, a 61-year-old harpist with Mariachi Jarocho, has been with the group for 46 years. He describes being part of Tenampa as "indescribable." The music never stops in Plaza Garibaldi, and the same is true inside Tenampa. The night seems endless as the scenes unfold, with Daniel singing, an Asian couple dancing, and the violins accompanying guitars to perform "La Bikina." Salón Tenampa, a living piece of history, continues to enchant and inspire.
