19 July 2024
5 mins Read
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The hallowed halls of the 159-year-old Hahndorf Inn are filled with the melodic sounds of German polka music. The jovial tunes are played by Herman and Heidi – a husband-and-wife duo who perform on matching vintage accordions while dressed in traditional lederhosen and dirndl. Merrymakers feast on pork knuckle, bratwurst and apfelstrudel, regularly clinking together steins of German bier or shots of schnapps. Prost! But we’re not in Bavaria. And it’s not Oktoberfest.
It’s just a regular weekend at the Hahndorf Inn, nestled in Australia’s oldest surviving German settlement in the undulating Adelaide Hills. Hahndorf was settled in 1839 by Lutheran migrants who came to Australia seeking religious freedom from Prussia.
They arrived via the ship Zebra, helmed by Captain Dirk Meinertz Hahn, who negotiated the land on behalf of the 52 families onboard. As thanks, they named the village Hahndorf – ‘Hahn’s Village’.
Constructed using traditional German techniques such as fachwerk (timber framing and wattle and daub panels), some of the original buildings have survived time, nestled among contemporary buildings on the charming main avenue lined with 100-year-old chestnut, oak and cork trees.
Within these historic spaces, skilled craftspeople and traders tout specialty goods, an artisanal culture that embodies the town today, as much as its German heritage.
Here’s how to spend your days in Hahndorf.
First established in 1854 as the Australian Arms Hotel, the Hahndorf Inn is a German family restaurant with cosy fireplaces for cool regional winters, al fresco dining for sun-drenched summers, and the Arcobräu Brauhaus (traditional beer hall) for frivolity year-round.
Come for traditional German fare or join in a strudel-making class, held daily at 10.30 am. Time your visit when Herman and Heidi are playing their jovial music.
With a history that goes back even further, the 1839-built German Arms Hotel is another local pub with a menu combining modern Australian cuisine with signature German dishes, much like its heritage space that was given a contemporary refresh in 2020.
Moving beyond pub fare but staying Euro-side, Gepetto’s serves rustic Italian dishes in a relaxed setting, accompanied by regular live music. Take a quick trip to Spain at Comida, a chic restaurant serving tapas, paella and vino; its manicured and festoon-lit garden area out the back is an idyllic setting on warm evenings and great for families.
Focusing on local produce, Hahn and Hamlin is an intimate diner in an original 19th-century stone cottage. The share menu features beef and lamb from Hahndorf’s own Max Noske & Son Butchery, Udder Delights cheese and Uraidla Bakery breads, while the entire wine list is made up of South Australian drops.
Wine lovers can sample more local drops at cellar doors along the main road, including Somerled Wines, whose elegant cellar bar has a fireplace, leafy courtyard and snack menu to accompany tasting flights.
Book the subterranean den of a historic stone building at Landhaus Wines, an atmospheric space for small group tastings. A little further down the road, sip wines and ciders in an old apple shed at Sidewood Cellar Door.
To experience several local winegrowers in one place, make a beeline for Adelaide Hills Wine Bar in the 1912 State Bank building. If gin is your drink of choice, knock on the distillery door at Ambleside Distillers. Its handcrafted spirits are made using botanicals from the on-site garden; you can even blend your own in a masterclass.
The distillery name is in reference to when Hahndorf was renamed Ambleside during the First World War when anti-German prejudice was rife. It was changed back to Hahndorf in 1935.
For your morning caffeine kick, head to Thiele’s Shop, a cafe and small goods store named after the local pioneering Thiele family who originally owned the 1839-built property. Think farmhouse cheeses, cured meats, wines and beers from small producers, and a simple breakfast and lunch offering, such as pastries and toasties.
Much of Hahndorf’s charm stems from its community of artisans, whose handcrafted wares and homemade provisions line the shelves of the town’s specialty stores.
Peruse handcrafted knives at Hahndorf Knife Shop; unique candles and German folk art at Hahndorf Candlemaker; quality leather goods at Hahndorf Leathersmith; and an aesthetically pleasing array of art supplies at The Paintbox.
Of course, there are many stores selling German goods, too, from cuckoo clocks to Birkenstocks. Stepping into The German Village Shop is like stepping into the Black Forest; it sells everything from hand-carved cuckoo clocks to beer steins, cowbells, music boxes and Christmas decorations.
Satiate your sweet tooth at The German Cake Shop and choose from more than 100 flavours of fudge at the four confectionery stores: Hahndorf Sweets, Humbugs of Hahndorf, Treats of Hahndorf and The Fudge Shop.
Perfectly located in the heart of Hahndorf, the Manna by Haus is a boutique hotel with simple but spacious rooms that can sleep up to four guests. For couples who want something a little more extraordinary, Under the Oaks is a chic studio stay in a converted 1858 church, with a king-size bed, fireplace and fully equipped kitchen.
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