07 June 2024
6 mins Read
Stretching 430 kilometres from Crystal Brook in South Australia’s mid-north to the glittering salt lakes on the edge of the Simpson Desert, the Flinders Ranges is a vast and alluring region that simply begs to be explored. One of the most accessible parts of the Australian outback, it’s a land of sun-bleached river reds towering over arid plains, ancient mountain ranges that light up with a fiery glow every evening and a night sky illuminated by millions of stars.
But settlements are few and far between in this vast wilderness, so it’s vital to do a little planning when deciding where to stay. Whether you’re looking for five-star luxury, a family-friendly caravan park or a remote campsite to share with the local wildlife, read on and you’ll find the perfect Flinders Ranges accommodation option for every type of trip.
Price: $$$$$
If you want to get a taste of outback life without roughing it in the slightest, start saving up to visit this former sheep station that’s been transformed into a 25,500-hectare wildlife conservancy.
There’s only room for ten guests at a time in the 1851 Arkaba homestead, and they have the run of the property with included activities including guided bush walks, 4WD safari drives and birdwatching excursions.
Add in meals prepared by a chef who makes liberal use of the onsite garden, an inviting outdoor pool and an extensive wine selection and this eco-retreat boasts everything you could want (except wi-fi, because the owners want guests to get out and explore).
Price: $-$$$$
You could spend weeks exploring the 12,000-hectare property at Rawnsley Park Station, and almost as long checking out all of the accommodation options.
A well-vegetated campground and budget cabins are perfect for families travelling on the cheap, while the comfortable holiday units are a step up and include decks so you can enjoy views of the weathered sandstone ranges that encircle the property.
But once you greet the day with mobs of roos and brilliantly coloured ringneck parrots circling the roomy decks outside the premium eco-villas, you won’t want to leave.
Price: $$$$
More than simply a place to stay while visiting the region, this legendary pit stop is a destination in itself.
Thousands of travellers make the pilgrimage to the onsite restaurant every year to sample a smorgasbord of native proteins, but it’s worth sticking around until sunset to see nearby ranges glowing bright red like a giant ember.
Once night falls, relax with a drink in the stylish private lounge before retiring to one of the Prairie Hotel’s country chic rooms decorated with cowhide rugs and contemporary artwork.
Price: $$$
Love the idea of camping but not so keen on long drops and creepy crawlies? Then the circle of 15 glamping tents at Wilpena Pound Resort has your name on it.
Each safari tent includes a kingsize bed, ensuite bathroom, fridge and aircon so you can relax in comfort, but the private deck and firepit keep you connected to the natural environment.
You’ll also find a bricks-and-mortar resort and campsites at the only accommodation located within Ikara (Wilpena Pound), and a range of guided tours run by the Adnyamathanha traditional owners help you to take in both the sublime natural beauty and the rich cultural history.
Price: $$$
Founded in 1840, Melrose is the oldest town in the Flinders Ranges and it’s no surprise that it also housed the region’s first brewery. After lying vacant for some 90 years, the bar in the fortress-like four-storey brewery recently began pouring beers again and the former bottling plant next door is also being put to good use. Now functioning as a boutique B&B, Jacka Brothers Brewery Guesthouse has four spacious bedrooms arrayed around an enormous common area that’s ideal for entertaining. And while original elements including giant timber trusses and solid masonry have been preserved, a thoroughly modern kitchen and ensuites allow guests to enjoy a very comfortable stay.
Price: $-$$
At the far northern end of the Flinders Ranges, Arkaroola Wilderness Sanctuary is the main hub of the breathtakingly beautiful Gammon Ranges.
A caravan park with powered sites and bush camping gives you front-row views of the 60,000-hectare property, while those who prefer a roof over their heads can choose from a range of suites, incredibly well-priced motel-style rooms and several self-catering cottages.
Just don’t expect to spend a lot of time inside: days are spent tackling the 4WD tracks that cross this formidable landscape and nights are devoted to starwatching at one of three onsite astronomical observatories.
Price: $
One of the last stops before the tarmac gives way to the Strzelecki and Birdsville Tracks, the former coal mining town of Leigh Creek once boasted a population of 5000 but is now home to fewer than 100 permanent residents. The upside of that is that guests at the Leigh Creek Outback Resort can access the local swimming pool, gym and tennis and squash courts.
Less a traditional resort than a collection of ’70s-era motel rooms and cabins spread over several streets, it also has an affordable restaurant and is located near the supermarket and shopping precinct.
Price: $
Quorn is one of the first major towns you’ll encounter as you approach the Flinders Ranges from the south, and the grand two-storey pubs lining the main street give a sense of its former importance. A dozen motel rooms located behind the town’s former mill are basic but spacious, and the location at the end of the main street means it’s a short walk to all the main sights. Friendly owners Paul and Kylie can point you in the right direction if you want some local tips, but don’t be surprised if you find yourself tempted to stay in and play with Fez the friendly house cat instead.
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